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As most of you know, for my 40th Birthday, Mary Lynn bought me one of the greatest gifts I’ve ever received: six days of sailing for ASA certification in Coastal Cruising and Bareboat Chartering. Sailing has always been one of my passions that sat quietly on the back burner while I lived in the mountains. My Dad taught me to sail at age 12 on the Chesapeake Bay and Lake Gaston in a 22′ Catalina that he loved. Ironically, I spent the past week on a 32′ Catalina while learning more about the fine art of sailing but more importantly the intricacies of safety, diesel mechanics, navigation, coastal cruising, and mooring in anchorages on mooring balls and in marinas.
 Our Charted Course This is a log of the lessons that you may find boring but is here for our journals and to share with those that have asked. It will also be a constant reminder to keep these skills fresh and to motivate our pursuit of a cruising blue-water boat. My goal was to become more familiar with the mechanics of the boat and to gain a better understanding of marine navigation. I succeeded because we are already committed to another charter with one of my classmates for a week in the San Juans in late September.
Beware the fever….
Day One (Saturday August 14th, 2010): Bellingham to Sucia Island
 Mary Lynn and I irresponsibly spent Friday the 13th in Seaside OR as spectators at the Seaside Pro Beach Volleyball tournament rather than driving the 280 miles to Bellingham WA. We had to be at the school at 11am so after a short night of sleep, we left Seaside at 3am and arrived in Bellingham at 8am. Shopping was quick but I still needed to pack so we pulled into the marina and I threw together a few things before heading to our boat ‘Just Fiddlin’. Here, Mary Lynn and I both met my instructor for the week, Chris Rundlett. Chris is a man following his dream. He lived in Spokane and spent time sailing in Lake Coeur d’Alene but was working as a prison guard and was entirely unfulfilled. One day he decided to follow his passion and is now a fully accredited ASA instructor as well as U.S. Coast Guard certified Captain’s License instructor. As we settled on the boat (a.k.a. stowed the Tecate), the remainder of our crew arrived. Andy is from Seattle and has his own small sailboat on Lake Washington while Nancy and Jeff are from the Bellingham area and looking for skills to eventually buy a sailboat and cruise. Chris promised we’d learn everything we needed.
 Sailing in the Shadow of Mt. Baker Our first exercise was a scavenger hunt on safety equipment required by the Coast Guard and additional equipment recommended by the ASA. Items included PFD’s, flares, throw rings, fire extinguishers, through-hull valves, etc. The second exercise was our 101 certification test (pre-study required!) which we all passed. After our tests, we had lunch with Chris’ girlfriend Crystal and Mary Lynn at the Web Locker restaurant. Here we said our goodbye’s, returned to the boat, cast our lines and motored out of the marina. Winds were light but after entering Bellingham Bay, we hoisted the sails for the first time and pointed west towards the straights between Lummi Island and Orcas Island. I spent most of the journey asking questions about geography and getting myself oriented.
That evening we dropped our first anchor in Echo Bay on Sucia Island to a perfect sunset. The fever was lit!
Day 2 (Sunday August 15th, 2010): Sucia Island to Stuart Island
 Course: 48:45.6 n,122:54.3 w; 48:44.9 n,122:52.55 w; 48:42.85 n,122:57.5 w; 48:37.6 n,123:06.1 w; 48:37.9 n,123:10.0 w; 48:39.6 n,123:10.6 w
Distance: 17.4 nautical miles
As anyone who’s been on a sailboat before, quarters are tight. On a 32′ sailboat with 5 people, they are even tighter. We gave Jeff and Nancy the rear berth because it was a double. Andy and I decided to take turns nightly between the V-berth in the bow and the dinette that converted to a bed. On Monday, we eventually settled with him in the dinette and me in the V-berth up front. Chris brought his bivy and slept in the cockpit each evening.
After coffee and breakfast in Echo Bay, we took the dinghy to shore for a short hike around the island which is a state park and entirely preserved. When we returned, Chris broke out the navigation charts and taught us how to use the parallel rules and dividers to calculate way points. We learned how to read the charts and navigational aids, plot a safe course to our next destination and determine latitude and longitude for any point on the chart. We also learned how to calculate compass headings, distance, speed and time on our course.
 Charting the Course After a few hours with the Nav Charts, we learned how to check the critical components of the diesel engine which include the raw water filter, fuel filter/strainer, belts, oil and closed water cooling system fluids. Navigation and engine checks are done daily with each student taking a turn doing both.
Once the engine checks were done, we pulled the anchor and spent the next hour learning to maneuver under power up to the lateral buoys and mooring balls in Echo Bay. Each of us took a turn or two getting a feel for the boat handling under power. We learned to work together on communication to get the boat up to and onto a mooring ball. After lunch on the mooring ball, we hoisted the sails and sailed out of Echo Bay for Stuart Island.
 That afternoon we sailed down President’s Channel off the northwest coast of Orcas Island between Orcas and Waldron Island. The weather couldn’t have been more perfect but with light winds we used the diesel for assistance. We cruised into Reid Harbor on Stuart Island just in time for dinner and sunset. We had planned to hike to the lighthouse on the north side of the island for sunset at the northernmost point in the San Juan’s but dinner took longer than expected. Instead, we stayed on board for steak and potatoes at sunset!
 Friday Harbor Ferry Day 3 (Monday August 16th, 2010): Stuart Island to Friday Harbor, San Juan Island
 Course: 48:40.36 n,123:11.7 w; 48:39.6 n,123:10.6 w; 48:38.1 n,123:05.5 w; 48:33.2 n,122:59.98 w; 48:32.6 n,123:00.6 w
Distance: 11.5 nautical miles
Coffee and breakfast started another gorgeous morning in the San Juan’s. Overall, the weather on this trip was nearly perfect. We had some fog in the morning on Tuesday at Friday Harbor and a low pressure system move through on Wednesday night that brought low, grey cloud cover but no rain. Otherwise, the weather was absolutely perfect for the remainder of the journey.
For our morning at Stuart Island, we took the dinghy ashore and hiked up to the small community that lives on Stuart Island. The community of about 800 people includes a one-room schoolhouse with 3 students and a community center that is powered and heated by both active and passive solar energy.
 Instruction from Chris Every day of this trip is busy with class, experiential learning, exploring islands, cooking, cleaning and sleeping. I didn’t have a whole lot of time for photos. Even when we were sailing there was a lot of learning (a.k.a. work) to do! We returned from shore, plotted the very short course to Friday Harbor, did the engine checks and set sail. Outside of Friday Harbor, we finally found some breeze and spent the entire afternoon taking turns maneuvering the boat under sail through all points of sail: close hauled, close reach, beam reach, broad reach, running, jibing (stern through the wind), back to broad reach, beam reach, close reach, close hauled and back through a tack (bow through the wind) to close hauled. Everyone took several turns through the 360 degrees and somehow 3 hours slipped away. When we finished going in circles for hours, we called Friday Harbor Marina to reserve a slip for the evening. Finally a night we didn’t have to cook and clean!
I had the dubious honor of the helm as we dropped sail and motored into Friday Harbor. Piloting a sailboat through a very tight marina for the first time definitely raises your awareness. Unsure of where our slip was located, we motored right past it into a tight corner of the marina. Chris taught me how to safely execute a 180 degree turn within 1.5 boat lengths without margin for error and then put us safely into the slip using a spring-line on the dock. This exercise was one of the most beneficial of the week.
 Marina at Friday Harbor We paid the mooring fees, cracked open beers and then grabbed showers. Dinner in Friday Harbor was at Haley’s Bait & Grill, a low-key restaurant with multitudes of fishing photos. Friday Harbor is the county seat for the San Juan Islands, a busy town with ferry’s and private boats in the marina. Summer is in their prime season with tourists aplenty!
Day 4 (Tuesday August 17th, 2010): Friday Harbor to Roche Harbor
 Course: 48:32.6 n,123:00.6 w; 48:32.4 n,122:57.5 w; 48:26.05 n,122:56.65 w; 48:25.3 n,122:58.55 w; 48:30.4 n,123:09.5 w; 48:34.25 n,123:11.1 w
Distance: 22.7 nautical miles
I woke up on Tuesday, poked my head through the forward hatch above my bunk. I couldn’t see further than 100 yards! Suddenly I heard the enormous fog horn on a ferry that I couldn’t see and I knew we weren’t going anywhere soon. We casually made breakfast and plotted our chart for the day while waiting for the fog to break. The first lesson of the day was tidal currents.
Chris had showed us in our first navigation lessons on how to check the tidal currents throughout the San Juans. The currents can reach 2.5 knots and for a boat travelling 5 knots under sail, they can provide a significant boost or obstacle. They had not had any significant impact to date, but today we were sailing through Cattle Pass out into the Straits of Juan de Fuca which is where the Puget Sound joins the Pacific. The tidal charts showed a very strong 2.5 knot tidal current pushing against us throughout the morning, making it difficult to get through the pass. Chris explained that the best time to sail through a narrow pass with heavy tidal currents is during the slack – the point at which the tide changes direction and there is no current.
We determined from our tidal atlas that 1:35 was the opportune slack for the day. Our course indicated approximately an hour sail to reach Cattle Pass so we determined that noon or shortly thereafter was our best departure time. By 10 A.M. the fog had cleared and we used the morning to grocery shop and photograph downtown Friday Harbor.
 Main Street - Friday Harbor The sail through Cattle Pass revealed more breeze in the Straits but was mostly uneventful. As we turned the corner on the point and headed north, we first encountered a large number of commercial fishing ships. Since the fisherman know where the salmon are, the likelihood is high that the Orcas know as well. Just north of the fishermen, we encountered our first whales of the trip. Surrounded by whale-watching boats with throngs of tourists, they are easy to find when they are feeding. We throttled down to an idle (as required by law) and waited as 5 or more killer whales swam past us in search of salmon. These elegant creatures are easy to spot with huge dorsal fins and their stark black and white coloring. We were treated to a mother and calf ‘fly by’ as we watched the fishermen drop their nets for fish, seemingly oblivious to the presence of the whales. Even more entertaining, we laughed when the whale-watching boats tipped uneasily to one side or the other as all of the tourists moved to either side in unison with whale appearances.
 Orcas Off San Juan Island From the whales, we sailed north past Lime Kiln Lighthouse heading for Mosquito Pass into Roche Harbor. The wind increased to nearly 12 knots so we decided to take advantage. The wind was so good that we stayed out rotating through crew positions and sailing until nearly 8pm. Again, practicing all points of sail and going through several tacks and jibes each in much heavier winds than we had previously experienced.
 Perfect Winds Finally, with a setting sun, we dropped the sails and headed towards Roche Harbor under diesel power. Approximately 15 mins after starting the engine, the engine overheated with an alarm. Chris checked the exhaust to determine if raw sea water, which cools the internal water system through a heat exchanger, was emitting from with the exhaust as it should. There was no water. We shut the engine down, hoisted the jib and turned back out of the pass for deeper water. While Andy, Nancy and Jeff took over sailing, Chris and I opened up the engine to determine why the raw sea water had stopped flowing. We bled the raw water lines and took apart the impeller which pumps the water into the heat exchanger. After several reassemblies, an hour of work, and some tests, we determined that water was flowing again. We restarted the engine had water flowing out the exhaust. The problem was apparently fixed but we had no idea what we fixed, leaving us with a constant worry about the cause.
 Andy Rests Chris would later determine with a call to San Juan Sailing mechanics, that the boat, when heeled over in strong winds, will get an air bubble in the raw water line and the flow of water will stop. By simply taking it apart and bleeding the line, we had fixed the problem. They are still working on a solution. We only experienced the issue once more in our week after another aggressive day of sailing. A quick bleed of the line fixed it and we never had to worry about it again.
By now, the sun was almost down and we called Roche Harbor marina for a slip reservation. As we motored in to our slip the loudspeakers announced ’10 minutes to colors’. Roche Harbor has a color guard and a nightly ceremony that brings a crowd to see the guard lower the flags at sunset. It’s somewhat hokey, but not wanting to miss it, we secured the dock lines, left our engine compartments open, tools out and grabbed the camera. We caught it just in time and amidst a crowded marina of other tourists, watched Old Glory descend the flag pole.
 Roche Harbor Colors We returned and cooked dinner on the boat and then closed out the evening in the bar at the marina with a nightcap. This ultimately turned out to be the most eventful day of the trip, from fog, to killer whales, to wind, to engine troubles and a final wrap in the gorgeous marina at Roche.
Day 5 (Wednesday August 18th, 2010): Roche Harbor to Rosario
 Course: 48:36.5 n,123:09.15 w; 48:36.9 n,123:10.0 w; 48:36.6 n,123:05.5 w; 48:36.0 n,123:02.2 w; 48:35.6 n,123:00.8 w; 48:35.9 n,122:57.1 w; 48:35.5 n,122:55.9 w; 48:35.1 n,122:52.0 w; 48:37.0 n,122:50.9 w
Distance: 18.0 nautical miles
We spent the morning sightseeing in Roche Harbor. The sculpture gardens were worth a tour as well as the history of the first lime kilns west of the Mississippi. The hotel is an artifact of old English maritime influence and the entire town is an idyllic harbor town. After the tour of town, we did our engine checks and plotted our course to Rosario harbor on Orcas Island.
We departed Roche just after lunch and sailed for Rosario on Orcas Island. Only one pass and very light currents made for a quick trip into the East Sound of Orcas Island where we found good winds for our next lessons. Today it was time for ‘Man Overboard’ drills. Our course books had attempted to explain the figure 8 process of turning around to find and pickup someone who has fallen overboard but it didn’t really make sense until we put it into action. At first it would seem that when someone falls overboard while sailing that the easiest thing to do would be to drop the sails, fire the engine and motor back to get them. However, all of that takes time, considerable time in fact. This drill can put your boat back on the overboard person within a minute or two, all under sail. We rehearsed it rigorously by tying two fenders together (nicknamed Bob) and throwing him overboard. The move requires assigning a spotter, falling off the wind to beam reach and sailing 5-6 boatlengths then tacking through a full turn to a broad reach on the opposite tack. It’s a big turn on this tack but immediately puts your boat 90 degrees off the wind and able to turn close-hauled to your victim and pick them up. See, I told you it didn’t make sense on paper…you just have to practice it! Practice we did! I think each of us did it 3 times apiece. If you happened to be on the jib sheets, you were working.
 Nancy gets a workout on the Jib sheets Exhausted after this exercise, we then learned how to ‘heave-to’; essentially parking the boat in the wind if you want to make lunch or take a nap. After each of us took a turn at this, the sun began to set and Chris said it was time for the final lesson of the day: sail into the Rosario harbor and pick up a mooring ball under sail (no engine). Normally picking up a mooring ball isn’t a difficult maneuver with the engine since you can control speed and direction. Under sail, speed and direction are a factor of the wind and since directional control comes from speed, a light wind is not your best friend. I wanted to try though and asked to take the helm.
It took us a while to get there with light winds but as we approached we found and targeted one of two remaining mooring balls. We sailed into the harbor from downwind of our choice and turned up between two boats to grab the ball. The idea here is timing…with the mooring ball directly up wind, the trick is to sail slightly off the wind with enough speed that you can blow the sails, coast up and grab the mooring. As we approached, I blew the sails too soon and we lost our speed almost immediately. Reigning the sails back in with an audience of boats around us, we then jibed quickly and headed back down wind towards the back of the harbor. Weaving our way through the harbor we slowly came back up to a close hauled and then tacked between two more boats to take another run at the mooring ball. Having learned my lesson on the first one, this one was easier to gauge and we blew the sails on time. Andy and Jeff were able to hook the ball and run our lines in one swift move. Once moored, the stern swung around and pulled tight. We dropped the sails and cracked a ‘We’re Here Beer’ !
 All 'Yachty' on the Mooring Ball in Rosario Day 6 (Thursday August 19th, 2010): Rosario to Cypress Island
 Course: 48:38.6 n,122:52.0 w; 48:37.0 n,122:50.9 w; 48:35.7 n,122:49.9 w; 48:36.0 n,122:48.1 w; 48:36.9 n,122:42.6 w; 48:36.05 n,122:41.7 w; 48:36.05 n,122:41.7 w
Distance: 10.25 nautical miles
It was a cloudy, misty morning on Thursday when we woke. We took the dinghy to the Rosario resort dock and explored the resort which was originally built by Robert Moran, a world-famous shipbuilder from Seattle. The museum on the second floor contained an enormous history of the Moran Bros. Shipbuilding business and of the fortune Robert amassed as a trustworthy and efficient shipbuilder. The pride of his career was in the construction of the USS Nebraska, launched from the shipyard in October of 1904 as Washington State’s only battleship. The woodwork in the resort is as intricate and precise as any ship Moran built.
We returned to the boat and spent the rest of the morning going through all of the systems on the engine. One of the primary causes of diesel engine failure on a boat is air in the fuel lines. We learned how to bleed the air at the primary filter and the uplift filter. Chris also showed us more about both water cooling systems and the heat exchanger. Finally we went through a review of the electrical and plumbing systems.
It was finally time for course navigation, engine checks and a sail to Cypress Island. We sailed out of Rosario under cloudy skies that were slowly breaking up. The run to Cypress Island was through Obstruction Pass with some heavy cross currents but the distance was short. We took a mooring ball just off Cypress Island and settled in for lunch and our next test, ASA 104 certification. Chris graded them immediately after we finished and everyone passed.
Feeling a bit lethargic from the ‘Man Overboard’ drills the day before and having the rest of the afternoon to ourselves, we decided to go for a short hike to Eagle Cliff on Cypress Island. We loaded some beers in the backpack and climbed about a thousand vertical feet over 1.3 miles up to the cliffs. The view was more than I expected! It was a classic panaroma of all the islands of the San Juan to the west and south of us. It was about 6pm when we reached the summit and I hadn’t brought my camera. The sunset was obviously going to be photo-worthy so Andy and I trekked it back down to the shore, across the water in the dinghy and grabbed the camera, snacks and more beer. Nancy, Jeff and Chris stayed and chatted while Andy and I hustled to make it back to the top just in time for sunset photos!
 Sunset on the San Juans (Overlooking Rosario Straits) All of us hiked down together in the dusk and cooked a late dinner, reveling in our sunset nostalgia over a spaghetti dinner. Chris announced that we needed to get an early start on Friday in order to sail back to Bellingham by noon. It didn’t take much more than that to convince everyone it was time for bed.
Day 7 (Friday August 20th, 2010): Cypress Island to Bellingham
 Friday Sunrise Friday morning sunrise was the best of the week. I stuck my head out the forward hatch above my bed as usual and had to immediately grab the camera. The sky was crystal clear sharp blue and red with glowing yellow on the high clouds to the east. We had coffee and quick bites of any remaining breakfast items while we washed dishes that we ignored for sleep the night before.
From Cypress, we motored south of Sinclair Island and into Bellingham Bay. Along the way, we practiced taking sightings on navigational aids and plotting our coordinates and comparing them to the GPS. Chris also performed individual reviews with each of us to let us know which skills he thought we had mastered and which ones we needed to continue to develop. In Bellingham Bay, we hoisted the sails for the final crossing into the marina. Along the way, we practiced a few more ‘Man Overboard’ drills in strong winds. We were able to sail all the way across the bay to the entrance of the marina. Here we dropped the sails and under diesel power took our last turns navigating the boat through the marina. With a stop at the fuel dock and our final stop in the slip, we had two more docking opportunities that solidified our skills. ”You should never feel too confident in the marina!” Chris said.
 Looking Back on the Lessons We threw the final dock lines, tied off, tidied up the boat, filled the water tanks, washed the decks and said our goodbye’s. Mary Lynn and Crystal were both there to greet us with hugs and I couldn’t say THANK YOU enough for this absolutely amazing birthday present!
Andy invited us to join him and his partner, Gale, on his first charter back into the San Juans in September. I couldn’t say anything but YES! I can’t wait to sail again…
A Little Bit More…
 That's a Wrap
Posted from Bellingham, Washington, United States.
Though Tim and I had each seen San Juan Island separately, it is too fabulous a place to only go once. Saturday we decided to explore downtown Bellingham and then camp on the island. We woke up early in the morning in the marina and drove into town.
Bellingham is a lively city with a thriving downtown area. Coffee houses, restaurants, and little shops are everywhere. But unlike the tourist towns we’ve been through, these places are for the locals. Everywhere you see signs for organic, buy local, recycling, and stay green. It’s a community with a conscience.
Tim and I got some work done in the morning and then tracked down the restaurant with the biggest line for breakfast. We knew it would be good. And at The Little Cheerful, it’s all good. We had the crabcake benedict with a side of “pimped up” hashbrowns. It’s the type of place that when you order a cup of tea they bring you a cup of water, a refill of water and two teabags – one for each. They get it.
 The Little Cheerful - Best Breakfast in Bellingham After errands, packing, a trip to the laundr0mat and a lunch of fresh local raspberries, we drove back to Anacortes to board the evening ferry. Tim had landed in Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor but hadn’t seen any of the interior of San Juan Island. I had lots to show him.
 Two Tickets to Paradise We loaded our bikes and backpacks and mapped out our destination. By 7:30 pm we planned to arrive at San Juan County Park, 7 miles across the island. We didn’t know what the camping situation would be, but we figured we could squeeze in with somebody.
We arrived just as the sun was starting to set. When we rode through the Park, it looked very full. Then Tim found a large meadow down by the water. No reservations necessary and it was for bikers and kayakers only. It was also the best camping, we’d seen on our entire trip.
 San Juan County Park, where the sunsets...  Just Keep...  Getting Better We set up our tent next to a very cool guy named Joel. He was from Thailand and started a cross country bike trip in Yorktown, VA in April. He’d spent the last 5 months riding solo through small towns across the US. His final destination is San Francisco. He spent the evening snapping photos – to prove to his boss that he really was riding – he told us. We’ll post his blog soon. It will be in Thai, but I know his pictures will tell an awesome tale.
The next morning we got up, said goodbye to our site mates, Joel, Haven and Dan, and started north towards Roche Harbor. On the way, we took a detour. On the banks of the Washington Coast lies a fully preserved 1850′s English Army Outpost, a historical reminder of one of America’s lesser known military entanglements, The Pig War.
 English Camp Below, Wikipedia tells the story:
The Pig War was a confrontation in 1859 between American and British authorities over the boundary between the United States and British North America. The Pig War, so called because it was triggered by the shooting of a pig, is also called the Pig Episode, the Pig and Potato War, the San Juan Boundary Dispute or the Northwestern Boundary Dispute. The pig was the only “casualty” of the war, making the conflict otherwise bloodless.
The Oregon Treaty of June 15, 1846, resolved the Oregon boundary dispute by dividing the Oregon Country/Columbia District between the United States and Britain “along the forty-ninth parallel of north latitude to the middle of the channel which separates the continent from Vancouver Island, and thence southerly through the middle of the said channel, and of Juan de Fuca Strait, to the Pacific Ocean.”
However, there are actually two straits which could be called the middle of the channel: Haro Strait, along the west side of the San Juan Islands; and Rosario Strait, along the east side. Because of this ambiguity, both the United States and Britain claimed sovereignty over the San Juan Islands.
During this period of disputed sovereignty, Britain’s Hudson’s Bay Company established operations on San Juan and turned the island into a sheep ranch. Meanwhile by mid-1859, twenty-five to twenty-nine American settlers had arrived.
San Juan Island held significance not for its size, but as a military strategic point. While the British held Fort Victoria on Vancouver Island to the west, overlooking the entry point to Puget Sound at the Straits of Juan de Fuca, the nation holding the military presence on San Juan Island would also have a vantage point for Haro Strait and the Straits of Georgia.
On June 15, 1859, exactly thirteen years after the adoption of the Oregon Treaty, the ambiguity led to direct conflict. Lyman Cutlar, an American farmer who had moved onto the island claiming rights to live there under the United States’ Donation Land Claim Act (1850), shot and killed a large black pig rooting in his garden. It turns out that the pig was owned by an Irishman, Charles Griffin, who was employed by the Hudson’s Bay Company to run the sheep ranch. The two had lived in peace until this incident. Cutlar offered $10 to Griffin to compensate for the pig, but Griffin was unsatisfied with this offer and demanded $100. Following this reply, Cutlar believed he should not have to pay for the pig because the pig had been trespassing on his land. (A possibly apocryphal story claims Cutlar said to Griffin, “It was eating my potatoes”. Griffin replied, “It is up to you to keep your potatoes out of my pig”). When British authorities threatened to arrest Cutlar, American settlers called for military protection.
Brigadier-General William S. Harney, commanding the Dept. of Oregon, initially dispatched 66 American soldiers of the 9th Infantry under the command of Captain George Pickett (of later Civil War fame) to San Juan Island with orders to prevent the British from landing.
 General George Pickett - Before Petersburg Concerned that a squatter population of Americans would begin to occupy San Juan Island if the Americans were not kept in check, the British sent three warships under the command of Captain Geoffrey Hornby to counter the Americans. Pickett was famously quoted as saying defiantly, “We’ll make a Bunker Hill of it,” placing him in the national limelight.
The situation continued to escalate. By August 10, 1859, 461 Americans with 14 cannons under Colonel Silas Casey were opposed by five British warships mounting 70 guns and carrying 2,140 men. During this time, no shots were fired.
 Cannons Protect English Camp The governor of the Colony of Vancouver Island, James Douglas, ordered British Rear Admiral Robert L. Baynes to land marines on San Juan Island and engage the American soldiers under the command of Brigadier-General Harney. (Harney’s forces had occupied the island since July 27, 1859.) Baynes refused, deciding that “two great nations in a war over a squabble about a pig” was foolish. Local commanding officers on both sides had been given essentially the same orders: defend yourselves, but absolutely do not fire the first shot. For several days, the British and U.S. soldiers exchanged insults, each side attempting to goad the others into firing the first shot, but discipline held on both sides, and thus no shots were fired.
When news about the crisis reached Washington and London, officials from both nations were shocked and took action to calm the potentially explosive international incident.
In September, U.S. President James Buchanan sent General Winfield Scott to negotiate with Governor Douglas and resolve the growing crisis. Scott had calmed two other border crises between the two nations in the late 1830s. He arrived in the San Juan’s in October and began negotiations with Douglas. As a result of the negotiations, both sides agreed to retain joint military occupation of the island until a final settlement could be reached, reducing their presence to a token force of no more than 100 men.
The “English Camp” was established on the north end of San Juan Island along the shoreline, for ease of supply and access; and the “American Camp” was created on the south end on a high, windswept meadow, suitable for artillery barrages against shipping. Today the Union Jack still flies above the “English Camp”, being raised and lowered daily by park rangers, making it one of the very few places without diplomatic status where US government employees regularly hoist the flag of another country.
 The British Flag Flies over San Juan During the years of joint military occupation, the small British and American units on San Juan Island had a very amicable mutual social life, visiting one another’s camps to celebrate their respective national holidays and holding various athletic competitions. Apparently the biggest threat to peace on the island during these years was “the large amounts of alcohol available.” This state of affairs continued for the next 12 years. The dispute was peacefully resolved after a more than a decade of confrontation and military bluster, during which time the local British authorities consistently lobbied London to seize back the Puget Sound region entirely, as the Americans were busy elsewhere with the Civil War.
In 1871 Great Britain and the United States signed the Treaty of Washington, which dealt with various differences between the two nations, including border issues with the newly formed Dominion of Canada. Among the results of the treaty was the decision to resolve the San Juan dispute by international arbitration, with Kaiser Wilhelm I of Germany chosen to act as arbitrator. Wilhelm referred the issue to a three-man arbitration commission which met in Geneva for nearly a year. On October 21, 1872, the commission decided in favor of the United States. The arbitrator chose the American-preferred marine boundary via Haro Strait, to the west of the islands, over the British preference for Rosario Strait which lay to their east. On November 25, 1872, the British withdrew their Royal Marines from the British Camp. The Americans followed by July 1874.
After a tour and a lesson on spinning wool. Tim and I made our way to Roche Harbor. We’d been craving some Oyster Shooters ever since Casey sent us an enticing email last week. Madronas Grill was the right place to be.
 Oysters and Hefe in Roche Harbor After oysters, beers and a nap in the sun, we rode the last 9 miles back to town.
 Naptime  Packing Up
 Friday Harbor We arrived just in time to catch the 5:00 ferry home. On the way, we talked to local boat builder Art Newbaucle. He gave pointed out the local sites as we sailed to Anacortes, including the rock that a ferry captain smashed into not once, but twice in the 80′s (apparently he was distracted by a lady in the cabin. According to Art it was the same lady in both incidents.)
 Back to Anacortes After funny tales and a quick, uneventful ferry ride home, we climbed back into Frank. We were off to Washington County Park and then back to Bellingham for the week. We can’t seem to get enough of the San Juans.
Posted from Friday Harbor, Washington, United States.
Lounging, working and watching the sailboats on Bellingham Bay.
After a hectic 2 weeks, Tim and I are settled in at an excellent coffee shop in Bellingham, WA (The Woods Coffee – great music, coffee, local pastries and blazing fast 8mb/sec internet) ready to catch up on the blog.
It’s been a wild ride. After my birthday on August 10, Tim and I made a beeline up the Oregon and Washington coasts to make it to Port of Bellingham in time to put him on the boat Saturday morning.
 Haystack Rock rising out of Cape Kiwanda Bay
On our way through, we passed by Cape Kiwanda where the 327 foot Haystack Rock, the 4th largest off-shore monilith in the world, rises out of the sea. The next day we had cheese omelets at the Tillamook Cheese Factory and spent a foggy beach day at Cannon Beach where another Haystack Rock looms over the wide beach.
 Haystack No. 2
 Cannon Beach The next day, Friday, we dropped by Seaside, Oregon’s equivalent to Ocean City, MD. We hadn’t planned to stay, but a warm, sunny day and huge beach volleyball tournament convinced us to change our plans.
 Too Nice a Day to Miss
 Tourney Time
 Seaside Oregon Beach Volleyball Tournament
 Grand Stand
 Spike  Tim Capturing the Comeraderie? of the Day
Early early the next morning, we were back on the road. We had 5 hours to drive to get Tim to Bellingham by 11 am. To give you an idea of what silly time we woke up, we arrived to the Marina with an hour to spare. Then Tim was introduced to the boat (Just Fiddlin’), his crewmates, Captain Chris and tested in the first of three rigorous exams to earn his charter certification.
After one last lunch and kiss, he got on board and Just Fiddlin’ sailed out of the harbor trailed by the dinghy, L’il Note. It was just me and Frank for a week of Washington Coast exploration.
On the recommendation of Captain Chris, I drove down to Anacortes, the launch point of the San Juan Ferries. That night I went to an ASA (American Sailing Association) Pirate Party. I was not prepared for the enthusiasm sailors have for partying Pirate style. The party rolled through town and down to the marina where the rum and coke flowed and guitars strummed Jimmy Buffett tunes until 2 am.
Despite the late night, I woke up early to board the ferry to San Juan Island, the largest of the chain, Sunday morning. The boat was packed with folks ready to enjoy the sunny and unusually hot 85 degree temperatures. I decided to bring my bike and started off from Friday Harbor to ride around the island.
 Roche Harbor Sculpture Garden
 Carefully Balanced
My first stop was Roche Harbor, a beautiful marina with a large sculpture garden, many gorgeous boats and an unbelievable local barbecued lamb sandwich. Stuffed, I got back on the bike and rode to Lime Kiln State Park where whale sightings are a daily occurrence. I wasn’t so lucky as to see the local orcas but it was a great place to relax and enjoy the views.
 Lime Kiln Lighthouse
 Lime Kiln Self Portrait
30 miles after I started, I pedaled back to Friday Harbor in time to catch the 4:50 ferry back to the mainland. I had just settled down with a book and a beer when two couples joined me. They had seen me riding around the island and wanted to say hello. In a crazy coincidence, they were both from Virginia. One couple had moved to Bellingham and the other lived in the same VA town as my best friend from high school. “If you need a doctor in Winchester, you should go see my buddy Kristin”, I joked to Alyson. “Kristin is my doctor,” she said. “We’re good friends.”
Even on a ferry in the San Juans, it’s a very small world.
After saying goodbye to my new friends, I climbed back into Frank and assessed my options. I seriously considered driving an hour north to Vancouver and camping in the city for the week. But I also had an invitation to join Dan and Rebecca with their kids Sidney and Sam south of the Olympic Penisula at Ocean Shores. The draw of good company and Dan’s outrageously tasty cooking was too much.
By Monday morning, I was setup in Ocean City State Park next to the Staeblers. It was a gray, cloudy week, but the Staeblers more than made up for the weather with energy and fun. Days were productive with work and evenings were filled with great food, Red Elvises and harmonica hula hooping.
Thursday morning, I was back in Frank for the 4 hour drive back to Bellingham to pick up Tim. It was a great week on my own, but I couldn’t wait to hear his sailing stories!
Posted from Friday Harbor, Washington, United States.
We finally made it to Roche Harbor together and celebrated with world famous Oyster Shooters!
Though we won’t dwell on it, I have to mention a significant loss to our traveling “family”.
Friday morning Tim got off the boat glowing after his 6 days of sailing. After a big hug, he went back to the boat, unloaded and quickly showered. Once he’d cleaned up, he went to grab his bike which was locked to the harbor bike rack outside of San Juan Sailing’s offices.
The Jamis wasn’t there.
After 5 years and 5,000 miles, Tim’s bike is gone. We’d decided to lock it up for the week, since it’s very difficult to manage two bikes alone on top of Frank. Tuesday night someone came through Bellingham Port, stealing bike wheels. They cut our lock and took Tim’s bike too.
Tim sadly filed a police report, submitted a claim with insurance and began looking at options. On Craigslist we found a short term solution. For Sale: Single Speed 1980′s Flame Orange Kona – $175.00. Perfect.
Though Tim planned to buy a new bike soon anyway, this wasn’t the way we wanted to retire the Jamis. We can only hope that a kid buys it at some Seattle pawn shop and get 5 more years of good riding out of it.
That night we sat at the Bellingham Brewery, eating delicious fried oysters and talking about possible improvements to the Kona. The waiter came to the table and asked Tim what he was drinking. “Somebody wants to buy you a drink.” When we looked perplexed the waiter answered, “He wanted to tell you ‘Not all of Bellingham is bad.’”
Though we weren’t positive who was so generous, it had to be one of the dozen of folks who helped us through the day dealing with police reports and bike replacement. And they were right. As we finished our last oyster we had to agree, as much as it really really stinks to lose the bike, life is still good.
After taking the ferry from Anacortes to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, we biked 10 miles to the west shore of the Island and discovered the most beautiful campsite we’ve found to date. The photo doesn’t do it justice, but we were too enthralled with the sunset (photos to come!) to take any shots with the phone.
Rumor has it that the northern lights may be visible tonight…
After 3 days of learnin’, we are settled in Friday Harbor on San Juan Island for the evening. Showers and dinner on land tonight and back out tomorrow!
Now I see why they stopped here…
After a delicious breakfast on Tuesday morning, Tim and I said goodbye to Mark and Jimmie and drove West to the Oregon Coast. It’s a part of the world that neither of us have seen and we couldn’t wait to check it out. We came drove to Florence and drove north towards Cape Perpetua. Here we stopped and took a hike around the tidal pools.
 The Coast!  Heceta Head Lighthouse  Tidal Pools at Cape Perpetua  Watch for Sneaker Waves! After our incredible drive up the coast we settled into an RV park at Newport for a much needed shower. We had reservations at the Saffron Salmon for birthday celebrations and couldn’t arrive in the state we were in. 2 hours later, we were dining on the Bay on seafood caught earlier that day. Calamari, Mussels, Crab Cakes, Seafood Stew, Champagne and Creme Brulee. My perfect birthday meal.
 The Saffron Salmon  Creme Brulee, Champagne and a Candle. Now that's a Birthday. After dinner we had a night cap at the Rogue Brewery before walking the mile back to our campground along the harbor. Raucously loud sea lions barked at us from the pier as we strolled by the fishing boats. It was a proper coastal good night serenade.
Next morning, Tim took a break from vacation to lend me some much needed and appreciated database help. To repay him for his 6 hours of hard work, I bought his ticket to the Oregon Coast Aquarium. We spent the afternoon checking out fat anacondas, jelly fish, and sharks. There was no doubt about it though, the sea otters made the afternoon.
 Jelly Fish Wonders
 Tunnels of Fish
 Sharks Swim Overhead
Pacific City We left Newport to then travel north up the coast. On a whim we swung off the main Highway 101, for the less traveled 3 Capes Byway. This brought us to Pacific City. I can’t put my finger on why, but Tim and I both immediately knew this will be a place we’ll come back to. It’s extraordinary.
Unfortunately though we knew we had to keep driving that night. We drove past Cape Lookout into the town of Tillamook where we camped for the night. This morning we popped into the Tillamook Cheese Factory where we watched the workers make about 50 of the 167,000 lbs of cheddar that they make daily. It takes 10 gallons of milk to make 1 pound of cheese. The milk trucks were stacked up 3 deep when we left after a cheesy breakfast at the Tillamook Cafe.
Cannon Beach
 Haystack Rock
 Chilly Beach Day
 Cannon Beach's Watchman
Today was to be our beach day. Though it was much cooler and misty than a typical beach day, we loved hanging out at Cannon Beach. While a sunny day would have been great, the misty views we got instead were just as beautiful.
Posted from Cannon Beach, Oregon, United States.
When Tim and I woke up Sunday morning, we got some great news. Jimmie Shell was dropping off his wife Keri and her family at the airport in Seattle after their Pacific Northwest vacation/yeti hunt and driving down to meet us that night on his way home to Salt Lake. This was in addition to us meeting up with Mark Sigman who came in to town from Connecticut early for a wedding later in the week. It was guaranteed to be a carnival with these two friends.
We drove north to Sisters to meet up with Mark at the Euro Bike Shop. He’d rented 29er for our trip into the mountains. We then drove to the McKenzie River Scenic Byway to for a taste of Oregon rain forest.
 Clear Lake Camping Thanks to another great recommendation from Melanie, the guys planned to ride the McKenzie River Trail the next day. Mark asked the guys at the bike shop about the proposed ride. “It’s epic, but very long and difficult.” Just their style.
We camped that night at the top of the trailhead at Clear Lake. Tim and Mark rode around the lake, getting a taste of the forest and lava rock trails that they’d ride for 26 miles the next day. By the time they were back, Jimmie Shell arrived from his long drive south. It was a late night around the campfire with plenty of beer as we caught up.
 Mark Rides through the Lava The next morning Jimmie and I were up early in order to drive 4 miles to the highway. This was the only place we could get cell service, so we camped out, making coffee on the bumper, getting the morning’s work done. Jimmie wrapped up early and drove back to camp for the big ride. Sigman and Tim were impatiently waiting back at camp, ready to begin one of the top 10 single track rides in the States, according to Singletracks.com.
The 26 miles rolls through emerald-colored mossy forest, past 60 foot tall waterfalls, through treacherous black lava fields and next to a brilliant natural spring called Blue Hole. When they were done, they agreed. There’s nothing like it.
 McKenzie River Trail  It's how long?  Jimmie Rolls through the Forest  A Long Way Down to the River  Mark riding the McKenzie River Trail  Jimmie at Blue Hole  The Jewel Colored Blue Hole Spring  Celebrating the Ride at Belknap Springs I had a full work day so I drove down to Belknap Springs to get the guys when they were done. It was 4 o’clock when they trickled into the campground, hot, sweaty, jubilant and starving. After an appetizer of burgers at the hot spings cafe, we drove up the road for camping, pad thai and John Daly’s.
 Finishing the Work Day at Belknap Springs Next morning, I turned 39! Tim treated us all to a delicious Cowboy Omlet and while he cleaned up I rode a few miles of the McKenzie trail as well. Imagine Pandora with singletrack. Amazing.
Posted from Eugene, Oregon, United States.
It’s catchup time on the blog! Since crossing the Colombia River from Idaho, we’ve seen the best of Oregon. Sandy deserts to mossy rain forests to misty beaches, we love it all. Tonight we’ve put together 3 blogs wrapping up the first stage of our Pacific Northwest adventure.
 Luxury Cruising in Coeur D'Alene Saturday morning, we woke up in Frank and made a big breakfast for ourselves and Melanie. Tim and I were then off to ride the incredible Bend trails that were accessible from Melanie’s front door. Ben’s to Whoops to Phil’s – it was a great day of dirt packed, pine needle covered, smooth singletrack. The folks of Bend have worked hard to create some of the nation’s best mountain biking trails. Talk to any Bend denizen and the local bike pride shines through. It is well deserved.
 Enjoying Downtown Post Bike Ride After our ride, Melanie took us exploring in the city. We walked along the banks of the Deschutes River and had delicious cheesy goodness at the local’s favorite Pizza Mondo. We sat on the street, drinking local beer, watching the parade of classic cars go by for the Bend Auto Show.
 Checking out the Deschutes with Melanie
 The Bend of Bend
Next up for the day, we climbed into Frank with Melanie’s puppy Pheobe and drove out of town. Past Mt. Bachelor, we turned onto one of the many side roads on our way down to Elk Lake. Every Saturday night at the Elk Lake Lodge, local talent comes up from town for a mini music festival. We settled in on the straw bales to watch Bend’s new musical phenom Mosley Wotta rap through the evening.
 Mosley Wotta lights up Elk Lake The crowd loved it. After the show, we pulled in to camp with Melanie’s friends, Marla, Marla and Carol and watched as the last rays of sun settled over the lake. It was a great taste of the best of Bend.
Posted from Bend, Oregon, United States.
A wonderful day on a gorgeous coast with a beautiful birthday girl!
After Franti, Melanie invited us back to her house to park Frank and work the next day. We stayed up late getting biking and activity recommendations before heading to bed. Melanie went to work early but she graciously opened her home to us and Tim and I used the day to work, do laundry and clean up.
When Melanie got back from work, we invited our new friend up to Sisters. We were going to meet Sean and Chelsea Armstrong for dinner at the Kokanee Cafe. Tim and Sean were in KA together at William and Mary and they hadn’t seen each other in 10 years.
It was a gorgeous drive through the old Oregon forests to get to the lodge at the base of Black Butte. We sat on the screened in porch under the pines and immediately the stories started to fly. When we ordered our second round of drinks, our waiter told us that they were already bought for us.
“What?” We couldn’t figure out who’d been so generous. Then we noticed the table of 4 guys next to us. They were fisherman from Michigan who were telling some raucous stories of their own. They’d been concerned they’d been too loud and bought us a round. We laughed at that and assured them we couldn’t be offended.
We then talked Sportsmobiles, travel and fishing with them for the next 1/2 hour. After a round of Oregon cherry cobblers, we were ready for the check. The waiter then told us that the check was already taken care of too. The 4 guys waved to us as they left the restaurant.
Unbelievable. Between our awesome hostess Melanie and our generous restaurant neighbors, Tim and I are blown away by the welcome of Oregon.
Posted from Bend, Oregon, United States.
Last night Tim and I arrived in Bend, OR. Since Tuesday morning, we’d driven 800 miles while still working full days. If that weren’t enough, Tim had a VM Board Meeting to plan for. It’s been a week of long days with just a couple hours of sleep. But when we found out Michael Franti was also going to be in Bend on Thursday night, we knew we couldn’t pass the opportunity up. We drove down mid afternoon yesterday and arrived just in time to meet up with Melanie, Weis’s cousin, and find spots to jump and down throughout the concert. (You don’t dance to Michael Franti – you jump).
Here are pics from yet another incredible show.
 A Sunny Franti Evening
 Les Schwab Ampitheater in Bend
 Let's Make Some Noise!!
 Michael Franti & Spearhead
 Always Stay Until the End. Michael Hugs the Crowd.
Posted from Bend, Oregon, United States.
After our hike out of the wilderness on Sunday, Tim and I began our drive West. We started back through Yellowstone but then impetuously decided to turn North at Gardner instead of taking our planned route towards Boise. Dan Staebler and family discovered a great campground tucked in the mountains above Pray Montana and we decided to join them for a last evening.
We drove up the dark winding road late on Sunday and spent Monday working in a forest that felt miles away from civilization but still had nearly perfect cell service. Rebecca greeted us early in the morning with kids, Sidney and Sam, following close behind. Frank is now showing off new artwork thanks to their water color skills.
As much as we’d have liked to stay though, Tim and I knew we had to get moving towards Oregon. We had 800 miles of driving ahead of us and so we prepared to leave that evening. Then Tim heard about the Red Elvises.
Though it was a Monday night, nearby Chico Hot Springs was featuring Igor and the Red Elvises in the saloon. Dan had seen them over the weekend and described them as a mix of Polka plus Beach Boys plus Ska. This we had to see.
 Pool Time At Chico Hot Springs
Our good travel intentions went out the window and we drove to Chico for an evening dip in the Hot Spring Pool and a night of remarkable entertainment. The Red Elvises were everything Dan had described and more. Dan came for the show as well and we joined the packed bar to jump, disco dance, and twist until 1 am.
 Let The Show Begin
 Igor Sings the Classic: Twist Like Uma Thurman
 Siberian Surf Rock
We knew it would be a very early morning of driving today, but it was worth every sleepy yawn. Four hundred miles later we have no regrets. Red Elvises are not to be missed.
Despite a tragic bear/human encounter 15 miles away three days earlier, Tim, Dana, Lulu the dog, and I hoofed into the Yellowstone Wilderness Saturday morning. Why? Big beautiful cutthroat trout. This is Tim’s favorite creek to fish in all of Wyoming and we were excited to give it a try.
 Sad and Chilling Reminder at Soda Butte Campground  All Smiles Early into the Hike  Lulu Leads the Way 3 things gave us comfort despite the possible wildlife danger:
- The bad bear had been caught
- There has never been an attack on a group of four and Lulu definitely counts
- The odds were in our favor.
 A Beautiful Morning after a Restless Backcountry Night  Yellowstone Beauty  Payoff!  On the Way Home We practiced good bear awareness, thanks to many loud hollered “whoops” and Tim’s heavy pack hanging skills, and the 14 mile trip went off without a hitch. And the payoff for a relatively sleepless night in one of the most remote places in the US was huge. The fish are big and hungry. The scenery is beautiful. And there is an Artichoke in Tarragon Butter at the Beartooth Cafe waiting for you at the end. It doesn’t get any better than this.
 Toasting with Artichoke - Please Excuse the New Wide Angle Lens
Posted from Cooke City-Silver Gate, Montana, United States.
June 4th, Tim and I drove into Jackson. The following 8 weeks sped by. Meetings, apartment decorating, dinners with friends and music – lots and lots of music – made the time go quick. The summer sun shone bright all through July and we biked and hiked in 80 degree temperatures. It’s been a great summer. The highlights we’ll never forget include Targhee Fest, 3 days of fabulous music and friends; hiking Table Mountain with BJ, Lisa and Schmitty; boating on Palisades with Gena and DC; and the Vertical Media camp trip which brought together Dan and Rebecca and family with the rest of the VM team.
Our latest sequence of pictures is from the Vertical Media Volunteer Day in Grand Teton National Park. We had great mentors who taught us how to roof and chink at the historical Bar BC Ranch and White Grass Ranch. This is great team building.
 Who Gave Us Trowels?
 Julia Takes a Break From Roofing  Lining Up  Tim Stays Busy  Lisa and Carli Mend Corners  Dan Discovers a New Talent  Celebrating a Good Day of Work As incredible as our time home has been, we are now excited to begin our trip again. Today we are driving out of Jackson through Yellowstone where we will camp and fish at Tim’s all time favorite creek for Yellowstone Cutthroat trout, (can’t name names unfortunately or will never be invited fishing again).
Dana is joining us for the backpack which will make it an even better sendoff. For our next adventure, we’ll drive North and West to Bozeman, Boise then Bend. Next weekend we’ll check out Crater Lake before heading north along the coast towards Canada. This is an area that Tim and I have never explored so if anyone has any favorite spots that we shouldn’t miss, let us know! We’re eager to see the Olympic Peninsula, eat lots of oysters and drink some good local beer.
It’s the final leg of our year long exploration of the US coastline. It’ll be good to get Frank back on the road!
Posted from Jackson, Wyoming, United States.
It was a perfect summer weekend in the Tetons capped off by an amazing show from Michael Franti!
 Michael Franti Plays Targheefest
Posted from Driggs, Idaho, United States.
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